Technologically advanced, with a reputation as a world leader in consumer electronics, robotics and the automotive industry, Japan is also a nation steeped in centuries of tradition and a rich cultural heritage. Here, on this chain of islands, in the country I have called home for the last six years, signs of the past and layers of history are evident not only in the physical environment but in the language, traditions and everyday behaviour of the Japanese people. As a sympathetic gaijin (foreigner), I’m interested in how Japan, with one foot in the past and one in the future, confronts the ongoing challenge of Westernization while preserving its unique cultural traditions, and what that process looks like.
The images shown here represent the starting point for a long-term photographic body of work exploring Japanese culture and identity, which aims to describe with imagination, sensitivity and humour the observable consonance and dissonance between the traditional and the modern, the native and the foreign, the strange and the familiar, the uchi and the soto, and the importance of wa (group harmony, consensus decision-making and social conformity) in contemporary Japanese society. This project, which is still in its infancy, won’t be a conventional travelogue of Japan. It will instead be an idiosyncratic visual exploration of Japan and Japanese culture made by an outsider.
All images copyright © Thaddeus Pope. All rights reserved.
Crowd control at the Hōnen Matsuri, also known as the penis festival, at Tagata Shrine in Komaki (just north of Nagoya City), Aichi Prefecture, Japan.
A young boy poses for a photograph at the Chubu Centrair International Airport booth in Oasis 21 in Nagoya, Aichi Prefecture, Japan.
Wearing nothing but a fundoshi (a traditional Japanese undergarment), a festival organiser checks to see whether it is suitably waterlogged enough for the Nakata Hadaka Matsuri (Naked Festival) to take place.
After a day of exuberant, fast-paced mayhem at the Kishiwada Danjiri matsuri in Osaka prefecture – the best known of all Danjiri Matsuri (cart-pulling festivals) in Japan – crowds wait patiently for the more subdued evening portion of the days events to begin.
Spectators make their way to the Toyokawa Tezutsu Matsuri (Hand-Held Fireworks Festival), Toyokawa, Aichi Prefecture, Japan.
Outside Sumitomo Hospital, Osaka, Japan.
In the doorway of Mikawa Miya Station, Gamagori, Aichi Prefecture, Japan.
Ikibana Display, Kobe Art Centre, Hyogo Prefecture, Japan.
In preparation for the Konomiya Hadaka Matsuri (Konomiya Naked Man Festival) in Inazawa, Aichi Prefecture, Japan, festival participants are helped into their fundoshi (a traditional Japanese undergarment). From the series “Konomiya Hadaka Matsuri”.
Men attempt to climb the ‘naoi-zasa’ during the Konomiya Hadaka Matsuri (Konomiya Naked Man Festival) in Inazawa, Aichi Prefecture, Japan. From the series “Konomiya Hadaka Matsuri”.
In accordance with club tradition, following the seventh inning stretch at the Koshien Stadium in Hyōgo Prefecture, Hanshin Tigers baseball fans release hundreds of balloons while singing the Tigers’ fight song.
For the past ten years, the Tottori Sand Museum has mounted an exhibition of intricate tableaus sculpted from approximately 3,000 tons of sand. Each year artists from around the world are invited to Tottori on the west coast of Japan to sculpt scenes on a particular theme, with this year’s theme being the United States.
In the small onsen town of Iwami-cho Iwai on the west cost of Japan, Mrs Ogura runs a shop called “Ogura-ya” which specialises in carving wooden figurines of the twelve animals in the Japanese zodiac. Wood carving has been in the Ogura family for approximately 1000 years. And, although her storefront is very small, Mrs Ogura has fulfilled lucrative orders with major Japanese stores, including MUJI, and images of her wood carvings have appeared on special edition stamps available nationwide.
Osu Shopping Street during the World Cosplay Summit in Nagoya, Aichi Prefecture, Japan.
Taxi driver stretches while taking a break, Kobe, Hyogo Prefecture, Japan.
Shortly after the Nakata Hadaka Matsuri (Naked Festival), a Shinto priest holding a traditional oil-paper umbrella leaves the Nakata Shrine (near Toyota City), Aichi Prefecture, Japan.
Two men prepare to light an enormous Tezutsu Hanabi mounted on a shrine-like frame at the close of the annual Toyohashi Gion Matsuri in Aichi Prefecture, Japan.
A member of the Akutagawa High School Taiko Club gives a traditional dance performance at the Osaka International Convention Centre in Osaka, Japan.
Following a candlelit procession through the streets of Hiroshima, thousands of people visited the Atomic Bomb Dome in Hiroshima’s Peace Memorial Park to commemorate the 69th anniversary of the US atomic bombing of the city on August 6th, 1945. From the series “Hiroshima”.
Traditional dance performance by Nagoya University Japanese Traditional Dance and Music Club, Nagoya, Aichi Prefecture, Japan.
Following a candlelit procession through the streets of Hiroshima, thousands of people visited the Atomic Bomb Dome in Hiroshima’s Peace Memorial Park to commemorate the 69th anniversary of the US atomic bombing of the city on August 6th, 1945. From the series “Hiroshima”.
Sensei Hiroshi Nishioka, 5th Degree Black Belt Master Instructor of Osaka’s Nishioka Dojo, practices Tameshiwari ice breaking during a karate demonstration in Kobe, Japan.
Sensei Hiroshi Nishioka, 5th Degree Black Belt Master Instructor of Osaka’s Nishioka Dojo, practices Tameshiwari ice breaking during a karate demonstration in Kobe, Japan.
A failed Tameshiwari wood breaking attempt during a karate demonstration in Kobe, Japan.
A successful takedown during a karate demonstration in Kobe, Japan.
Fans of Vissel Kobe cheer on their team as they play against Cerezo Osaka in a league-cup Kansai derby. Cerezo Osaka defeated Vissel Kobe 1-0.
Fans of Vissel Kobe cheer on their team as they play against Cerezo Osaka in a league-cup Kansai derby. Cerezo Osaka defeated Vissel Kobe 1-0.
Osu Shopping Street during the World Cosplay Summit in Nagoya, Aichi Prefecture, Japan.
A pause in the music during Bon Odori in Nagoya, Japan.
Preparing to light a tezutsu hand-held firework during Bon Odori in Nagoya, Japan.
Light illuminates the face of a man holding an ignited tezutsu hand-held firework during Bon Odori in Nagoya, Japan.
The “GOLDENS” dance troupe, who dance in the Japanese Butoh style, give a performance on the steps of Osu Kannon Temple in Nagoya, Japan.
The “GOLDENS” dance troupe, who dance in the Japanese Butoh style, give a performance on the steps of Osu Kannon Temple in Nagoya, Japan.
Couples wearing traditional festival clothing make their way down the steps of Osu Kannon Temple in Nagoya, Japan.
Dozens of camera flashes illuminate the scene as the young boy wearing the demon mask is lifted onto the old wooden railing surrounding the temple. The large rice cake he holds signifies peace and a good harvest in the coming year. Image © Thaddeus Pope. All rights reserved.
A young child catches the attention of a barman during a drinks reception in Osaka, Japan.
Due to the number of politicians and senior dignitaries in attendance, including Japanese Prime Minister, Shinzō Abe, and US Ambassador to Japan, Caroline Kennedy, large numbers of policemen oversee the annual Hiroshima Peace Memorial Ceremony. From the series “Hiroshima”.
Every year thousands of candle-lit paper lanterns containing messages of peace are floated onto the Motoyasu River in Hiroshima to commemorate the anniversary of the US atomic bombing of the city on August 6th, 1945. From the series “Hiroshima”.
Taiko performance by the award-winning Osaka-based Akutagawa Senior High School Taiko Club, Osaka International Convention Centre, Osaka Prefecture, Japan.
A young J-pop group give a performance at Osu Kannon Temple in Nagoya, Japan.
The “GOLDENS” dance troupe, who dance in the Japanese Butoh style, give a performance in Nagoya, Japan.
Established in the 1300’s, Nara Park is home to nearly 1200 freely roaming deer, considered in Shinto to be messengers of the gods.
Korankei “Momiji” Maple Festival, Toyota City, Aichi Prefecture, Japan.
Young Japanese girl photographs the Toyokawa tezutzu Festival in Aichi Prefecture, Japan (2014).
Firework display during Bon Odori in Nagoya, Japan.
As the sun goes down on the west coast of Japan, a yoga class pose for photographs on the sand dunes in Tottori.
Korankei (香嵐渓, Kōrankei) is a valley near Nagoya reputed to be one of the best spots for autumn colors in the Chubu Region of central Japan.
A view down a corridor in the Awaji Yumebutai International Conference Center on Awaji Island – a building designed by Pritzker Prize winning Japanese architect, Tadao Ando.
A view down a corridor in the Awaji Yumebutai International Conference Center on Awaji Island – a building designed by Pritzker Prize winning Japanese architect, Tadao Ando.
A young woman has her photo taken on a large sign that reads “Be Kobe” in Meriken Park in Kobe, Japan. When Japan opened its doors to foreign countries 150 years ago, Kobe was designated as one of the ports to be used for foreign trade and an American consulate was built. To Japanese people at that time, the word American sounded like “Meriken”, so the consulate area became known as Meriken Hatoba, which means American wharf. Source: Kobe International University website (www.kobe-kiu.ac.jp/en/)
A young woman has her photo taken on a large sign that reads “Be Kobe” in Meriken Park in Kobe, Japan. When Japan opened its doors to foreign countries 150 years ago, Kobe was designated as one of the ports to be used for foreign trade and an American consulate was built. To Japanese people at that time, the word American sounded like “Meriken”, so the consulate area became known as Meriken Hatoba, which means American wharf. Source: Kobe International University website (www.kobe-kiu.ac.jp/en/)
As part of the annual Nakada Hadaka Matsuri (originally a fertility festival) near Toyota City, male festival participants wearing traditional Japanese loincloths attempt to climb long bamboo poles in a muddy field – often falling when they reach the top.
Located in Arashiyama in Kyoto, Japan, Iwatayama Monkey Park on Mt Arashiyama is inhabited by a troop of over 170 Japanese macaque monkeys.
An abandoned sidecar motorcycle sits behind the derelict Iwai elementary school in Iwami-cho Iwai, near Tottori. Built in 1892, the Iwai elementary school is the oldest western style building that remains in Tottori prefecture. However, like many other buildings in this old onsen town (and similar towns across Japan), Iwai elementary school was forced to close its doors and has since fallen into a state of disrepair due to a lack of need – a situation caused, at least in part, by the declining Japanese birth rate, and younger generations leaving small towns and villages to live and work in larger cities.
Boys wearing traditional festival clothing pose for photographs while teams of local men drag immense floating mikoshi across the shallow water of the Mikawa bay during the annual Miya Festival in Gamagori, Japan.
Local men drag an immense floating mikoshi across the shallow water of the Mikawa bay during the annual Miya Festival in Gamagori, Aichi Prefecture, Japan.
A grey heron in flight spreads its wings wide to slow before landing on a concrete jetty on Awaji Island in Hyōgo Prefecture, Japan. With the longest central span of any suspension bridge in the world, the Akashi Kaikyō Bridge (seen in the distance) links the Japanese mainland of Honshū to Iwaya on Awaji Island.
A grey heron in flight spreads its wings wide to slow before landing on a concrete jetty on Awaji Island in Hyōgo Prefecture, Japan. With the longest central span of any suspension bridge in the world, the Akashi Kaikyō Bridge (seen in the distance) links the Japanese mainland of Honshū to Iwaya on Awaji Island.
The Akashi Kaikyō Bridge at sunset, as seen from the Mitsui Outlet Park near Kobe. Built on the concept of a European port town, this shopping mall consists of 140 outlet stores selling international and domestic brands.
Saihō-ji is a Rinzai Zen Buddhist temple located in Matsuo, Nishikyō Ward, Kyoto, Japan. The temple, which is famed for its moss garden, is commonly referred to as “Koke-dera”, meaning “moss temple”.
The contrasting colours of flowers in the 100 Stepped Garden of Awaji Yumebutai – a memorial to the 6,434 people who lost their lives during the Great Hanshin earthquake which shook Awaji Island in 1995.
The contrasting colours of flowers in the 100 Stepped Garden of Awaji Yumebutai – a memorial to the 6,434 people who lost their lives during the Great Hanshin earthquake which shook Awaji Island in 1995.
Men from one of the seven local districts participating in the Nada no Kenka Matsuri, also known as the Nada Fighting Festival, heave their “yatai” (a large, heavy and exquisitely decorated portable shrine) onto their shoulders and begin the march to the Matsubara Hachiman Shrine in the town of Shirahama in Himeji City, Japan.
Each October the sleepy seaside town of Shirahama in Hyogo Prefecture plays host to one of the best known festivals in Japan – Nada no Kenka Matsuri also known as the Nada Fighting Festival. As the largest of numerous fighting festivals held nationwide, Nada no Kenka Matsuri attracts more than 100,000+ spectators each year, who travel from across Japan to witness seven teams of local men (representing seven local districts) jostle and knock their districts “mikoshi” (portable shrine) against one another until one team emerges triumphant – with victory decided when one “mikoshi” is hoisted on top of another, or one team drops their “mikoshi”.
According to local experts, Nada no Kenka Matsuri, which has roots that date back over 600 years, was created both as a means to settle local disputes while competing for the blessings of a good harvest the following season from the “kami” (gods in the Shinto religion) – it is said that the louder and harder the sacred mikoshi collide, the more the “kami” will be pleased.
Boys from Higashiyama district holding “shide” (bamboo poles decorated with colourful paper) at the Nada no Kenka Matsuri, also known as the Nada Fighting Festival, in Shirahama Town in Hyogo Prefecture, Japan.
Each October the sleepy seaside town of Shirahama in Hyogo Prefecture plays host to one of the best known festivals in Japan – Nada no Kenka Matsuri also known as the Nada Fighting Festival. As the largest of numerous fighting festivals held nationwide, Nada no Kenka Matsuri attracts more than 100,000+ spectators each year, who travel from across Japan to witness seven teams of local men (representing seven local districts) jostle and knock their districts “mikoshi” (portable shrine) against one another until one team emerges triumphant – with victory decided when one “mikoshi” is hoisted on top of another, or one team drops their “mikoshi”.
According to local experts, Nada no Kenka Matsuri, which has roots that date back over 600 years, was created both as a means to settle local disputes while competing for the blessings of a good harvest the following season from the “kami” (gods in the Shinto religion) – it is said that the louder and harder the sacred mikoshi collide, the more the “kami” will be pleased.
Teams from the districts of Higashiyama (pink) and Yaka (yellow and red/orange) compete against each other in the fighting arena during the Nada no Kenka Matsuri in Shirahama Town in Hyogo Prefecture, Japan.
Each October the sleepy seaside town of Shirahama in Hyogo Prefecture plays host to one of the best known festivals in Japan – Nada no Kenka Matsuri also known as the Nada Fighting Festival. As the largest of numerous fighting festivals held nationwide, Nada no Kenka Matsuri attracts more than 100,000+ spectators each year, who travel from across Japan to witness seven teams of local men (representing seven local districts) jostle and knock their districts “mikoshi” (portable shrine) against one another until one team emerges triumphant – with victory decided when one “mikoshi” is hoisted on top of another, or one team drops their “mikoshi”.
According to local experts, Nada no Kenka Matsuri, which has roots that date back over 600 years, was created both as a means to settle local disputes while competing for the blessings of a good harvest the following season from the “kami” (gods in the Shinto religion) – it is said that the louder and harder the sacred mikoshi collide, the more the “kami” will be pleased.
Towards the end of the final day of festivities, the seven districts participating in the Nada no Kenka Matsuri bring their “yatai” (large, heavy and exquisitely decorated portable shrines) to the fighting arena for battles known as neri-awase.
Each October the sleepy seaside town of Shirahama in Hyogo Prefecture plays host to one of the best known festivals in Japan – Nada no Kenka Matsuri also known as the Nada Fighting Festival. As the largest of numerous fighting festivals held nationwide, Nada no Kenka Matsuri attracts more than 100,000+ spectators each year, who travel from across Japan to witness seven teams of local men (representing seven local districts) jostle and knock their districts “mikoshi” (portable shrine) against one another until one team emerges triumphant – with victory decided when one “mikoshi” is hoisted on top of another, or one team drops their “mikoshi”.
According to local experts, Nada no Kenka Matsuri, which has roots that date back over 600 years, was created both as a means to settle local disputes while competing for the blessings of a good harvest the following season from the “kami” (gods in the Shinto religion) – it is said that the louder and harder the sacred mikoshi collide, the more the “kami” will be pleased.
Cultural performance by Nagoya University Japanese Traditional Dance and Music Club, Nagoya, Aichi Prefecture, Japan.
Cultural performance by Nagoya University Japanese Traditional Dance and Music Club, Nagoya, Aichi Prefecture, Japan.
In an exhilarating display of skill and courage during the Kishiwada Danjiri Matsuri in Osaka prefecture, a 4-ton wooden danjiri successfully manoeuvres around a corner while travelling at full speed.
Built in the shape of a shrine or temple – often with exquisite decoration and elaborate carvings – “danjiri” are large sacred wooden carts which are constructed and maintained by local neighbourhoods for use in danjiri matsuri (cart-pulling festivals). Although danjiri matsuri are common throughout Japan, the most famous danjiri matsuri of them all is the Kishiwada Danjiri Matsuri, which takes place each September in Kishiwada – a working class suburb of Osaka.
In most places with danjiri matsuri, the danjiri are pulled slowly through the town until they reach their destination. In Kishiwada, however, they do things differently. In its 300+ year history, the Kishiwada Danjiri Matsuri has earned a nationwide reputation for being particularly spectacular, as participants attempt to pull the danjiri around corners at full speed while group leaders leap and dance about on top of them – a practice which frequently results in injury, property damage and occasionally in death.
The crowd reacts to an impressive display of skill and courage during the Kishiwada Danjiri Matsuri, as a 4-ton wooden danjiri successfully manoeuvres around a corner while travelling at full speed.
Built in the shape of a shrine or temple – often with exquisite decoration and elaborate carvings – “danjiri” are large sacred wooden carts which are constructed and maintained by local neighbourhoods for use in danjiri matsuri (cart-pulling festivals). Although danjiri matsuri are common throughout Japan, the most famous danjiri matsuri of them all is the Kishiwada Danjiri Matsuri, which takes place each September in Kishiwada – a working class suburb of Osaka.
In most places with danjiri matsuri, the danjiri are pulled slowly through the town until they reach their destination. In Kishiwada, however, they do things differently. In its 300+ year history, the Kishiwada Danjiri Matsuri has earned a nationwide reputation for being particularly spectacular, as participants attempt to pull the danjiri around corners at full speed while group leaders leap and dance about on top of them – a practice which frequently results in injury, property damage and occasionally in death.
After a day of exuberant, fast-paced mayhem at the Kishiwada Danjiri matsuri in Osaka prefecture – the best known of all danjiri matsuri (cart-pulling festivals) in Japan – festival participants wait patiently for the more subdued evening portion of the days events to begin.
Built in the shape of a shrine or temple – often with exquisite decoration and elaborate carvings – “danjiri” are large sacred wooden carts which are constructed and maintained by local neighbourhoods for use in danjiri matsuri (cart-pulling festivals). Although danjiri matsuri are common throughout Japan, the most famous danjiri matsuri of them all is the Kishiwada Danjiri Matsuri, which takes place each September in Kishiwada – a working class suburb of Osaka.
In most places with danjiri matsuri, the danjiri are pulled slowly through the town until they reach their destination. In Kishiwada, however, they do things differently. In its 300+ year history, the Kishiwada Danjiri Matsuri has earned a nationwide reputation for being particularly spectacular, as participants attempt to pull the danjiri around corners at full speed while group leaders leap and dance about on top of them – a practice which frequently results in injury, property damage and occasionally in death.
A view of Kyoto in the autumn from the top of Mount Arashiyama.
A view of the Sanyo Paper Co. factory in Tottori during winter.
The costumes worn by Toba-dai-kagaribi festival participants are made from the thick cotton banners of previous festivals. Because of the catlike appearance of their hoods, the men are often referred to as ‘neko’ (cats) by local townspeople. From the series “The Great Bonfire of Toba”.
In an impressive display of courage and teamwork, the men tear at the towering inferno, forcing it apart and weakening its structure. From the series “The Great Bonfire of Toba”.
The men remove their masks to reveal faces fatigued by the immense physical effort of the task. From the series “The Great Bonfire of Toba”.
Once the holy trees have been retrieved, they are taken to the Toba-Shinmeisha-shrine as an offering. From the series “The Great Bonfire of Toba”.
First Quarter Moon, as seen from Aichi Prefecture in the central region on Honshu, Japan.
