Misasa Onsen Hanayu Festival (Misasa no Jinsho)

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Towards the centre of sparsely populated Tottori Prefecture, near the foothills of the hallowed Mount Mitoku, sits the historic and charming hot spring town of Misasa Onsen.¹Misasa Onsen’s history revolves around a legend of a wolf and a samurai in the Heian Period (794-1185), when Heian-kyo (now Kyoto) was the capital of Imperial Japan. According to local legend, a samurai named Okubo ran into an old white wolf while on a pilgrimage to the sacred Mount Mitoku. Although Okubo raised his bow to kill the wolf, he ultimately changed his mind. That night, the Bodhisattva, Myoken Daibosatsu, appeared in the samurai’s dream, rewarding him for sparing the life of the wolf by revealing the spot of a hot spring. The following morning, Okubo went there and found hot water gushing from under the roots of an old camphor tree. That fabled tree still pours thermal mineral water from the earth. In tribute to the legend, the town has erected statues of the samurai and wolf facing each other. Though modest in size, with an estimated population of just 6,400, Misasa Onsen is well-known across Japan for its fabled radium hot springs, which are considered to be therapeutic and beneficial in treating all kinds of ailments.²Made famous for its healing powers, the waters of Misasa are considered to be therapeutic and beneficial in treating all kinds of ailments, as their hot springs have some of the highest levels of radium in the world. Popular among Japanese people seeking a healing retreat, visitors often stay extended periods ranging from weeks to months at a time. Many Japanese consider the chemical element to be beneficial. This is based on the theory of hormesis, according to which small doses of radiation aids health by speeding up one’s metabolism and strengthening the immune system. In honour of Marie Curie, who discovered radium, the town has its own festival to celebrate the pioneering scientist. Misasa means “three mornings”, because, according to folk wisdom, if a person bathes in its waters for three consecutive days, their health will be restored by the morning of the third day. Lesser known than its healing hot springs, however, is Misasa’s annual tug of war festival, the Misasa Onsen Hanayu Festival also known as Misasa no Jinsho. 

Held over two days during “Golden Week” – one of the most important holidays in Japan alongside New Year and Obon Week – the Misasa Onsen Hanayu Festival is a celebration of the birth of Shakyamuni Buddha. It also functions as a ritual of gratitude for the town’s prosperity and hot spring’s healing powers. The festival culminates in a giant tug of war between two teams of local men representing the western and eastern parts of the district. This contest is known as the jinsho. The result of the jinsho is believed to decide the fortunes of the town in the year ahead. If the eastern team wins, the harvest will be good. If the western team wins, business will prosper. 

Day One: The Rope 

The most unique feature of the Hanayu Festival is the rope used in the jinsho. Made entirely from hand woven wisteria harvested from the sacred grounds of nearby Mount Mitoku, the gigantic rope is approximately 80 meters in length and weighs more than 4 tons. It takes the two teams of men an entire day to weave the individual ropes. This process takes place the day before the jinsho; however, the process of preparing the wisteria begins much earlier. In order to be weaved into ropes, the harvested wisteria branches must first be soaked in the Mitoku River until they become soft and malleable, a process that can take several weeks. 

Once the wisteria is deemed soft enough, the weavers pull the branches onto the riverbank where they are beaten, twisted and braided together by the two teams to form the massive ropes. This construction process requires a carefully coordinated communal effort, with the older, more experienced team members playing a leading role. In celebratory spirit, green tea and alcoholic beverages are enjoyed throughout the day. It is said that the unique shape of the ropes employed in jinsho symbolises harmony with nature, and their two parts embody male and female forces. 

Mitoku River has its own distinctive charm, with its kajika frogs, fireflies and herons. The kajika frogs’ unique mating calls have been likened to singing. It’s an idyllic setting to spend a day working alongside friends, colleagues and neighbours on a collaborative project imbued with deep cultural significance.

Day Two: The Tug of War Contest 

The second day of the festival begins with rituals, parades and traditional dances, before culminating with the main event, the jinsho.

In the evening, participants drag the two enormous wisteria ropes to the middle of Misasa’s main shopping street, Misasa Onsen Hondori. The two ropes are then pulled into position and bound together in the centre of a large green archway called ryokumon. Chants of “oisa, oisa!” can be heard throughout the town as participants lift the “male and female” ends of the ropes onto their shoulders and attempt to haul them into position. The sheer weight and unwieldiness of the ropes makes joining them together a complicated process, which takes many attempts, careful coordination and a lot of physical effort to achieve.

As soon as the ropes are finally joined, the crowd roars in approval and the tug of war begins in earnest. Though the buildup may have been lengthy and complicated, the contest itself, despite being hardfought, is usually over quickly, with a winner emerging victorious in less than a few minutes, as they drag the opposing teams rope across the victory line. The side that wins is said to predict the fortune of the entire town in the year ahead. If the east wins, the harvest will be bountiful, whereas, if the west wins, business will be good. Regardless of which side is triumphant, the spirit of the festival is good natured. Immediately following the contest, the wisteria is cut into small pieces and distributed among participants and spectators as a good luck charm that reportedly prevents illness. 

The Hanayu Festival is a source of enormous pride for the townspeople of Misasa Onsen, and a designated Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property by the Government of Japan. The unusual festival offers a remarkable, one-of-a-kind opportunity in which to soak in the town’s rich history and culture. In preparation for the 2020 Tokyo Olympic Games (now cancelled due to the coronavirus pandemic), Japan is seeking to feature and attract visitors to locations of cultural and historic significance around the country. Misasa Onsen was chosen as one of these locations.

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Thaddeus Pope

Documentary Photographer

Based in Japan, Thaddeus Pope is a photographer, videographer and web/print designer with a passion for human-centred visual storytelling. He is available for assignments in Japan and around the world.

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